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William Henry Jackson's 1899 photograph of El Capitan.
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Today, the Nose attracts climbers of various experience and ability levels, and with a success rate of around 60%, typically takes fit climbers 4–5 days of full climbing. The first ascent of the Nose in one day was accomplished in 1975 by John Long, Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay. The first solo climb of "The Nose" was done by Tom Bauman in 1969. The second ascent of the Nose was in 1960 by Royal Robbins, Joe Fitschen, Chuck Pratt and Tom Frost, who took seven days in the first continuous climb of the route without siege tactics. The climbing team relied heavily on aid climbing, using rope, pitons and expansion bolts to make it to the summit. The fixed manila ropes allowed the climbers to ascend and descend from the ground up throughout the 18 month project, although they presented unique levels of danger as well, sometimes breaking due to the long exposure to cold temperatures. The Nose was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days using "siege" tactics: climbing in an expedition style using fixed ropes along the length of the route, linking established camps along the way. These forces contribute to the creation of features such as the massive Texas Flake, a large block of granite slowly detaching from the main rock face about half way up the side of the cliff.
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Nonetheless, as with most of the rock forming Yosemite's features, El Capitan's granite is under enormous internal tension brought on by the compression experienced prior to the erosion which brought it to the surface.
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The El Capitan Granite is relatively free of joints, and as a result the glacial ice did not erode the rock face as much as other, more jointed, rocks nearby. Several periods of glaciation have occurred in the Sierra Nevada, but the Sherwin Glaciation, which lasted from approximately 1.3 mya to 1 mya, is considered to be responsible for the majority of the sculpting. Īlong with most of the other rock formations of Yosemite Valley, El Capitan was carved by glacial action. A separate intrusion of igneous rock, the Taft Granite, forms the uppermost portions of the cliff face.Ī third igneous rock, diorite, is present as dark-veined intrusions through both kinds of granite, especially prominent in the area known as the North America Wall. In addition to El Capitan, this granite forms most of the rock features of the western portions of Yosemite Valley.
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Main article: Geology of the Yosemite areaĮl Capitan is composed almost entirely of El Capitan Granite, a pale, coarse-grained granite emplaced approximately 100 mya (million years ago). For climbers, thee challenge is to climb up the sheer granite face there are many named climbing routes, all of them arduous. The top of El Capitan can be reached by hiking out of Yosemite Valley on the trail next to Yosemite Falls, then proceeding west. In modern times, the formation's name is often contracted to "El Cap", especially among rock climbers. It is unclear if the Native American name referred to a specific Tribal chief, or simply meant "the chief" or "rock chief".
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El Capitán ("the captain", "the chief") was taken to be a loose Spanish translation of the local Native American name for the cliff, variously transcribed as "To-to-kon oo-lah" or "To-tock-ah-noo-lah". The formation was named "El Capitan" by the Mariposa Battalion when it explored the valley in 1851. The granite monolith extends about 3,000-foot (900 m) from base to summit along its tallest face, and is one of the world's favorite challenges for rock climbers.